Sunday 28 June 2015

Sunday 28 June 2015 - Koufonisia

We woke up to a lovely day.  The wind is still blowing, but it does seem better.  So as we are here we decided to continue to act as tourists.  We will take the other boat which goes to beaches on the sister island.  It costs the same 5 euros each, so that is good.  We have a very interesting journey to the island.  The boat goes right inland at the tip of a different island next to cliffs which contain loads of caves.  It was a shame that we didn’t bring a camera!

We arrive at Kato Koufonisia.  The first stop is where there is a taverna, but that is not where we want to get off.  So we get off at the far end where there is a beach.  The first thing we notice is the landing stage!  I wouldn’t want to take a boat there.  It is just planks of wood attached to rocks, many of which are sticking out into the sea.  The captain of this boat really knows just how much it draws!  We manage to get off the boat (something of a miracle given how steep the descent from the landing stage is) and walk along to look for a place to stay.  It is not a particularly sandy beach.  There is sand, but it is interspersed with lots of rocks.  We manage to find a place to put up our umbrella, again using rocks to keep it from blowing over (though the wind isn’t nearly so bad today).  The second thing we notice is that many of the people on the beach are nude!  So Richard has finally found his ‘skinny’ (as in skinny dipping) beach.  He can’t wait to get his gear off.  Then I notice that more and more people are stripping off.  I put on a rather covered up bathing suit, mainly because I am still red where I burnt on my chest the other day.  We have two hours here before the boat comes back to take us to the taverna for lunch.

We have an initial swim.  The beach may not be lovely and sandy, but the setting is magnificent.  It is a beautiful bay surrounded by low cliffs and the colours in the water are amazing.  We sit on our new beach mats.  I mainly stay in the shade.  It is not long now before we need to get the boat.  So we have a last dip and R persuades me to swim nude.  Well, I didn’t want to get on the boat in a wet bathing suit, did I?

We get to the taverna and look to see how to order food.  It is like the places I remember going to years ago.  There is no menu.  There is just a slab with all their fresh fish to choose and large dishes in the kitchen with today’s salads, vegetables and other dishes to choose from.  I would really like a fresh fish.  We have been avoiding them because they overcharge so badly.  However, I choose a large scorpion fish which when weighed up will only cost about 17 euros for the two of us.  So we order that together with a nice vegetable stew and a tomato and feta cheese salad.  There is of course a big rush to order because everyone has come off the boat at the same time.  So we are not surprised when service is a bit slow.  We get our drinks fairly soon and then bread and our veggies and salad, but no fish.  Richard says we should be patient (not one of my virtues), but after at least 45 minutes I am convinced we are never going to get our fish.  Then finally a waiter comes and says there has been a mistake and our fish was served to someone else!  He offers us fried calamari instead, but we have eaten a lot of that and particularly wanted a grilled fish.  Finally he says he can do another fish for us but it will take 30 minutes!  So we wait. We eventually get the fish.  By that time our hunger has worn off and it was a bit of a disappointment.  But I really think that had we got the fish in time, it would have been one of the best taverna meals we had.

After lunch we try to find the beach.  It is on a path behind the taverna and down a steepish path through the cliffs.  The beach is all stony.  There is nowhere to put up our umbrella, nor put out the mats.  We just find a big rock each to sit on.  Really we just want another swim.  This beach is not skinny, so with swimsuits on we have a go getting into the water.  The beach is so stony that I cannot walk on it barefoot.  So as we both have waterproof sandals we go swimming with them on.  Even then we have to walk along the beach to find a place where the stones are further apart to get in!  But we have a nice swim and just about dry off in time to catch the boat back to the main island.

As we wait for the boat, I decide to take a photo.  The only way to do that is on my old iphone, which we have our Greek sim card in.  I turned the phone off and when I went to turn it back on it said that the sim had been locked and I needed a pin to unlock it.  The only pin Richard and I know of was 0000, which we were told was the pin on all new cards.  But that doesn’t work.  You only get two goes before you are locked out.  So after the second attempt doesn’t work we decide we will have to get to the boat and see if we can find any info on a pin.  But we can’t.  We asked a friend by e-mail to phone us, but the phone won’t even take incoming calls.  What a nuisance, particularly as we are trying to meet up with friends tomorrow.

That is not the only problem here in Greece.  As we feared all along, Grexit (Greek exit from the Euro) appears to be imminent.  Our friend has e-mailed us to say that the island he is on has run out of money.  I hear someone on the phone saying there has been a run on the supermarkets.  When we go shopping for our next few days food, we find that there is stock on the shelves, but they won’t take a credit card, only cash, even though we paid by card at the same shop yesterday.  Back on the boat we look up the news and find that the banks will all be closed tomorrow.  So it begins.  We have cash enough for a few weeks, but if things get really bad we may have to go on to Turkey.  Interesting times, as they say!


So we shall see.  In the meantime the plan is to move on to the next island to try to meet up with friends tomorrow. 

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