Tuesday 9 June 2015

Tuesday 9 June 2015 - Pilos

The original plan for the day was to get an early start and make our way to Kalamata.  However when R gets up early he consults the weather forecasts and decides that there will be no wind today and it will be hot and sunny.  So he suggests we stay here and go out into the bay and anchor.  We can then swim and have a leisurely day.  With that in mind we go back to sleep and have a bit of a lie in.  We make our way to the town in the morning and find the fish shops open.  We buy a lovely sea bream big enough for two.  It only cost 5 odd euros.  We cannot understand why fresh fish in the restaurants is so expensive.  We also make another very important purchase. We get one of those solar showers, which are a black plastic bag that heats up water and then you can use it to shower.  It only cost 9 euros, so it is worth trying to get over some of our hot water problems.  Richard takes it over to the tap and fills it.  It is very heavy, but this time he remembers to take the trolley with him, so he can bring it back full.

So late morning we slip our mooring and set off into the bay.  It is bright and sunny but there is soon a brisk breeze blowing straight at us.  We do eventually anchor off a beach, but the wind has made it so cold we do not fancy trying to swim.  Also there is a lot of rumbling noise.  It is more or less continuous.  It sounds like thunder and there are some very large cumulous clouds that look suspicious, but no rain had been forecast.    I find it difficult to believe that the rumbling is thunder, particularly as it seems to stop at lunch time.  I speculated that it may be quarrying.  But as the afternoon goes on it is clear that it is thunder, particularly as we start to see lightning.  We are not happy to stay out in the bay if thunderstorms are going to hit.  The sound of the thunder comes closer and closer, so we decide to take up the anchor and go back to the town.

We could have returned to the marina and probably would have been able to get in to the space we left, but we decide instead to try the town quay.  When we get there we find two boats already tied up.  As we approach luckily the skipper from the catamaran behind comes out and helps with our lines.  The quay is so high I cannot reach to climb up it and therefore it would have been almost impossible for us to moor without help.

Once tied up (with four lines!) we decide to go for a walk.  The problem is how to get me off the boat.  R can just about manage by pushing himself up to sit on the quay and then stand up.  I try that, but to manage I have to push hard on the boat and that sends it away for the quay, leaving a gap for me to fall in to.  No, that won’t do.  In the end the only way I can get off is for R to put the fender board across the coach roof to the quay and for me to ‘walk the plank’.  It does work and off we go.

We walk around the sea front to where there is an old Frankish castle.  We saw it as we came in and it looks interesting.  There is a large converted church in the centre.  However, when we get to the place on the sea front where the castle starts we can find no way in.  So we backtrack and try to find a way in from the land side, walking into the centre of the village.  There we meet the man from the chandlery, who tells us the castle and church are closed until the morning.  So we give up.

It was so cold out in the bay that we couldn’t contemplate swimming.  However, now that we are in town, it is hot. So we put on our swimsuits and go have a dip in the sea.  It is fine, but a bit cool.  We have found a beachfront shower, so we are able to rinse off when we get out of the sea.  Back on the boat we try our solar shower.  It has only made the water warm, not hot, but it is a comfortable temperature.  So we both use it to wash our hair.  It is a little awkward because we haven’t yet found anywhere high enough to hang it.  This means we have to crouch down, but it works.  At worst it will be useful for showering off on the swimming platform after going in the sea.  But it is not really a solution to our hot water problems, as it can only really be used outdoors and stripping down on the back of the boat won’t often be suitable!


As the evening wears on the boat starts to rock a lot in a little swell coming in the harbour. It is a really annoying motion that makes me feel unwell.  The pilot book did warn us that the quay can be uncomfortable.  In the end, I take a pill, just to make me happier. So far, still no thunderstorm.  We have our nice fish aboard.  We will retire early, hoping the boat motion sends us to sleep for an early start tomorrow.

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