Saturday 12 September 2015 – Datca, Turkey

I didn’t have a great night.  The sea was a bit lumpy over night and I kept waking up.  But notwithstanding that we get up fairly early because we want to get away and arrive at Datca before the forecast one metre waves start up.  So we do manage to leave just after 9am.  It would have been nice to have a swim before we left, but we decided that we really didn’t have the time.  We waved goodbye to the Luries and then the anchor came up like a dream on the windlass.  Thanks again Jonnie.

There is a fair amount of wind from the beginning but initially it was on the nose.  The sea was already getting lumpy and motoring into the wind and waves was not the most comfortable.  But when we finally cleared the Island and headed for the Turkish mainland we were far enough off the wind to sail.  And we had quite a good sail with the wind usually around 15 knots, but sometimes going up to 17.  As we approached Datca the wind started to die, so we decided to put the engine on.  It was just as well that we did and got into port when we did.  As we approached there was one other boat mooring in what looked like an awkward spot.  We could see one other awkward looking spot near there, when a boat left a really good easy to get into spot.  So in we went and were safely moored, having successfully dug the anchor in well as we reversed into the space.  After that it appears that the port is full and there are a number of boats anchored just in the corner.  One reason to come here was to be safe from a biggish wind and large sea forecast for tomorrow, so I am very grateful that we are in a nice secure mooring space.

It is very hot again, but as we have little food on board we go in to town to find some lunch.  We wind up in a weird little café where we eat too much and it wasn’t very nice.  We then have a walk around the town.  We find a harbour official who takes money for the mooring, which is quite expensive.  Then we stop in one of the yacht agents who confirms he can check us out of Turkey for us to leave fairly early on Monday morning.

After that we find the market.  It is huge.  We were told there was a good market here.  In fact everyone we met talked about how good the local markets are generally.  So we are pleased to finally be in town on its market day.  We don’t need much on the boat, so I only bought a little bit of fruit and a huge bag of Turkish delight.  The stallholder wouldn’t see me take less!  Similarly he talked me in to buying 100 grams of a herb mixture he makes to use for grills.  Well at least I can take that home on the plane!

We are opposite two cafes both which have WIFI.  The first we used was the café we had lunch in.  However, despite being directly across the street, we keep losing the connection to them.  So we went out to a bar also just across from us and got their WIFI code.  We hope we can keep using that especially as they are playing horrible disco music very loudly at the moment!

We had dinner on board and now just doing puzzles and chores.  We will stay here tomorrow and if it continues to be hot we will go to the beach, which isn’t far.  However, the strong winds this evening have cooled the place down and it has got down to 27C here in the saloon!

Friday 11 September 2015 - Panormitis Bay, Symi, Greece

What I forgot to mention in yesterday’s entry was how our windlass got fixed (we hope).  When we got in and Jonnie came Richard did not call for an electrician, but instead they both looked at the foot button and found the problem was pretty obvious.  One of the wires had come loose and needed to be soldered back in.  Jonnie borrowed a soldering iron from his friend Terry and an extension lead from the restaurant and soldered it back in.  They say it now works, but we have not tried to use it with the weight of the chain and anchor yet!  But we really were very grateful.

So with a working windlass we decided to go with the Luries to Panormitis Bay on the Greek island of Symi.  We have not formally checked out of Turkey yet, or checked into Greece, but apparently everyone does this.  So we set out at about 11:30 am.  At first there is very little wind and we don’t even bother to put up any sail. Jonnie says he is not a light wind sailor and we certainly aren’t because our boat just doesn’t move in light winds.  But very soon the wind comes up and up go the sails.  The only problem is the proverbial one, the wind is on the nose.  But it is suitable to take us over to Symi and that is what we do.  The wind eventually builds up to 15-17 knots, a really nice sailing wind.  I get a bit fed up with tacking because you have to go at least twice the distance to get to your destination, but even I have to admit we had a very nice sail.

Panormitis bay is very pretty.  There isn’t much here.  There is a monastery but only the church seems to be really in use.  Most of the buildings are let out as cheap holiday accommodation for locals.  We are at anchor, swinging (meaning no long line ashore) which is what we are used to so we are content.  We go ashore in the dinghy to see what little there is.  The dinghy is not well inflated so we take the foot pump with us and pump it up when we get tied up.  Unfortunately, by the time we come to use it later in the evening one side has deflated again.  We must have a leak or the valve may be faulty.  We are going to have to do something about it!  There is always something.

After swims and showers we have an hour on the boat just relaxing and then take the dinghy over to the Lurie’s boat where we have an excellent BBQ.  Jonnie has a Cobb BBQ, as we do, but he is much more adept at using it.  He has roasted a whole chicken in it.  I have brought Haloumi cheese to grill and Kofta type kebabs, together with tomato salad and the last of my taboule.  So we have a real feast.

But it is now getting late and I have visions of Richard falling out of the dinghy a few days ago, so we make it back to the boat safely.  The Luries would like us to go with them to another local Greek Island, but we think it is best for us to go back to Turkey to check out before returning to Greece.  So that is the plan for tomorrow.  I just hope I can take the anchor up with the windlass!

Thursday 10 September 2015 - Sogut, Turkey

We have agreed to meet Jonnie and Marion Lurie just around the corner in Sogut.  As they are not arriving until after lunch, we have a leisurely morning.  I do a bit of shopping so we have a few lunches on board.  We have a coffee at Osmans to catch up on e-mails and download the Times.  We get away a bit later than we hoped at about11:30am.  As ever I am a bit concerned that the anchor will come up and not be fouled, although we know we put it down where instructed well out of the way of others.

So off we go and from the start I am not happy about the windlass.  I seem to have to push very hard on the foot button to get the upward pull going at all and then it is quite slow.  After only a minute or two it stops altogether.  I hoped it had just tripped.  So I go below to check and find that it is still on.  That means the windlass has packed up!  So what shall we do.  We have two choices.  The first is to go back to the berth and get someone here to fix it.  The alternative is to try to get the thing up and meet the Luries.  We have a berth reserved at the Octopus Restaurant pontoon which has pick up lines.  There might be someone there to look at it.  Alternatively we could go back to Marmaris tomorrow to get it fixed.

So with that in mind, I start pulling on the anchor chain and to my relief and delight it comes up quite easily.  I manage to get most of the chain up and Richard comes forward to get the anchor itself up, leaving me to steer in crowded surroundings!  I manage OK.

So we are off.  We only have 6-8 miles to go, so we take it very gently and even sail for about half an hour, just on the genoa because we know that around the next headland the wind will die.  We arrive in Sogut at 1pm and it is very very hot.  So after being nicely assisted into our berth, first stop is to go swimming.  We are a bit surprised to find how shallow the water is on the other side of the pontoon, where there is a swimming ladder.  It is all very lovely and peaceful. I manage to make a light lunch out of bits in the fridge and an avocado bought nearly a week ago, which has just ripened.  At about 3pm the Luries arrive and are berthed right next to us.  Then their other friends, Terry and Sue come into the next berth.  All very friendly.

We have a quiet afternoon sitting in the sun and going in to swim frequently.  Before dinner we have everyone on board for a drink, making my Caribbean rum punch, which goes down well.  Then dinner at the restaurant, where the portions are small (gratefully) but very tasty.  More yakking and swapping sailing tales and then late to bed!

Wednesday 9 September 2015 - Bozburun, Turkey

I had a really good long night’s sleep, but still woke up rather groggy.  I think it is the heat.  So we had a nice swim before breakfast to cool us off.

We were slow to get moving.  Mike and Julia came over in their dinghy to say goodbye.  They were going north to Datca.  We are going back south to Bozburun.  The weather forecast is for some wind, although it might not be in the right direction.  So in hope we put up the mainsail.  Much to our surprise and delight there is wind.  But if we were to sail direct to Bozburun, it would be on the nose.  However, we must detour out to sea to dump our holding tank, so we are able to tack and sail.  The wind starts at only about 9 knots, but soon builds to 15-17 knots in line with the forecast Mike got.  We are going very nicely.  Again our new clean bottom is making a lot of difference and we are doing 6 knots.  However as is usual the wind continues to build.  It is what Richard is calling an Ealing (W5- westerly force 5), and now we are doing 7 knots or better.  Then it starts to gust 20-22 knots and we are doing 8 knots. At this point I am getting a bit nervous.  We should be taking in a reef with this wind, but of course it is only gusts.  When we finally get far enough out we dump the tank and turn towards Bozburun.  Now the wind, still at the top of a 5 and gusting 6 is from behind and we are having a very pleasant romping sail all the way to port.

When we get to the bay the wind is still blowing at about 15 knots.  But the sea is flat and we have no trouble taking down the sails and getting prepared to go in to the harbour.  We were hoping to moor where we were the other night, next to Osman’s restaurant, not least because we could use their showers, toilets and WiFi.  But the harbour master is insistent that we should go on the other side of the harbour, and as we are not regulars we can only comply.  Later Richard speaks to the harbour master who explains that a rally is coming in and have reserved the spaces we were hoping to go into.  We manage to get the anchor down in the place we are told and are tied up. 

Even though there is a good breeze, it is still terribly hot, over 30C.  So we decide to take Julia’s advice and find a café on the sea front that has a terrace with a bathing platform.  However we cannot find anything suitable.  All the bathing platforms seem to belong to pensiones and apartments, not cafes.  Many only have seats in the sun.  Finally we find a couple of beds near an umbrella and negotiate a fee of 20 lire to sit there for the next couple of hours.  We buy an ice cream from the local supermarket across the way and then have a swim.  When we get out despite the fact that the water is like a bath, with the wind we are quite cold!  I even have goose bumps.  It doesn’t last for long though, but we are comfortable sitting here until after 6pm.

So back towards the boat.  We can’t decide if we want to eat out.  We ate out yesterday and I have food on the boat.  However, it really is too hot to cook, so we have a drink at Osman’s and then make reservations for dinner.

Back on the boat it is even hotter and now the wind has completely disappeared.  So we shower aboard.  We have trouble with the electricity.  We plugged in on arrival and it was working fine.  However when we get back we find our line has been taken out of the socket.  When I try to put it back it blows the whole unit.  I finally find someone from the harbour to look at it.  He doesn’t know much English, but understands ‘electricity’.  He comes over and puts our plug into his own extension lead.  Despite this every time he plugs it in, it trips the whole unit.  We aren’t running much and we changed all our wires two years ago, so I can’t believe it is our system.  It turns out it isn’t.  He plugs us into a unit some way away and it is fine.  So we can now charge everything up!

We have a very nice dinner at Osmans.  We have starters and Richard orders chilli peppers in yoghurt.  It is so hot we drink through nearly two litres of water!

Back here on the boat it is still very hot.  Even here in the cockpit, I am dripping in sweat.  But I suppose we will sleep. 

Tuesday 8 September 2015 - Kocabahce, Turkey

It has been a few days since I posted.  Really the last few days have been quite eventful and we have really been too busy for me to write this.  On Sunday we woke up after a very good sleep in Bozuk Buku.  It was another beautiful scorching hot day.  At least two of the boats on the pontoon said they were going to stay for the day and we were tempted to do the same.  But we contacted the Solanos who said they were free and could meet us in Bozburun today, so we decided to depart, somewhat reluctantly. 

We did not have far to go, but again the only wind there was, was on the nose and we had to motor all the way.  When we got to the bay we rang Mike on the VHF and found that he was anchored around the corner to have lunch.  So we decided to do the same, anchoring just outside the harbour where we ate up bits from the store cupboard and had a swim.  The only disappointment was that the water is murky, and we have become so used to crystal clear waters.

At about 3pm Mike and Julia turned up.  They anchored in front of us and came over where we had a good yak before we both went into the harbour and moored stern to on anchor in front of the Solano’s favourite restaurant, Osmans.  The staff there all know them and he is a special person called Mr Mike!  The town is quite extensive.  We had a cold drink at Osmans, and then Julia and I went to the smaller of the two major supermarkets and I bought a few more essentials.  It has been extremely hot here.  We find there is a place to swim, but it is now too late for that.

We use Osman’s showers which are quite good.  But even after a more or less cold shower, by the time I dressed for dinner I was dripping again! 

We first had drinks on board ours, we had some left over ice from yesterday and Mike had bought some more, so we had rum punch, which was appreciated by all.  We then had a very pleasant meal with the Solanos, being treated like royalty by the staff.  It was so hot I could barely eat, but did manage an ice cream for desert! By the time we stopped yakking it was 11:30 and I was dead beat.  The heat really gets to me.  So back to the boat and then out like a light under the fan, despite the heat.

On Monday we did a bit more shopping around the town, which is even more extensive than I first thought.  I can see why it is a popular place and it is particularly good for provisioning.  So after tasks were completed we made our way in convoy with “Mr Mike” to Dirsek.  This is a really pretty bay which opens up from a quite narrow entrance.  The only problem is that it is quite deep.  There is a restaurant at the end where you can tie up to their pontoon, but we really wanted to have a joint BBQ, so we wanted to anchor. 

Mike was a great help to us.  He directed us where to put our anchor down and he supplied a long line to go ashore.  He even secured it for us!  The only problem was that we couldn’t set the anchor well.  We left it not dug in just to have lunch and then after lunch set it again, this time R remembering to dig it in!  All seemed fine so we swam over to the Solano’s boat for an afternoon cold drink when suddenly Mike jumped up and went to his dinghy, saying our boat was not right.  We are not sure what happened, but another boat was trying to anchor in the same area and may have tripped our anchor with theirs.  Anyway the upshot was a bit of panic getting us back on the boat, and resetting the anchor yet again!  Part of the problem was that where we had to put the anchor down was 15-20 metres deep, and we had to put out a lot of chain to keep in place.  After the last attempt R went to look with the face mask and snorkel.  He can see the chain, but can’t see the anchor and assumes that is because it is completely dug in.  I hope so.

We knew the wind would get up in the afternoon, and it did, gusting up to 17 knots as it swirled over the hills around the bay.  We seem to be well placed and not dragging, but our windage meant that we were moving from side to side, which was a bit of a worry.

However, by the time we left the boat to go to the Solanos for our BBQ, the wind had dropped at bit and we were happy to leave the boat feeling it was secure.  We hadn’t even put the engine on our dinghy so Mike very kindly picked us up and took us to the boat with our contribution to dinner of chicken kebabs and tabboulet.

We first had drinks.  Julia made up Cuba Libres (Rum and Coke).  It was very refreshing.  Mike then tried to light the BBQ and we found we had problems.  The wind was still blowing moderately and in a direction that blew flames and sparks from the BBQ right into the cockpit!  We persisted for a while, but it was getting unbearable.  Then Mike got very clever.  He let out his stern line so that the boat swung around and we finally got to a position where we could use the BBQ.

Dinner was nice.  Mike made lamb cutlets and peppers and added to my food with a tomato and avocado salad we had quite a feast.

It was getting quite late when I suddenly realised that Richard had had too much to drink.  It was worse than I expected. We somehow got him into Mike’s dinghy and we assumed that as he had managed that he could get on our own boat OK.  But we were wrong!  He fell in twice trying to board the boat.  Mike was really worried he might drown and kept hold of him to keep his head above water.  I was on the boat hysterical.  Finally we got him aboard and I had to get him down into the boat to shower off and put him to bed.  I was furious with him.

I had a terrible night waking up constantly.  I was worried about the boat.  With all the trouble we had this afternoon securing it I still wasn’t sure that the anchor wouldn’t drag during the night.  If it did, it would be impossible for me to deal with it on my own.

So I woke up this morning feeling really lousy only to find R in fairly good spirits with no ill-effects of his overindulgence.  He really remembers little and doesn’t remember falling into the sea at all!  Today he is on the wagon!

After the traumas of yesterday we have decided to have a quiet day.  Mike and Julia have suggested we stay together and go to a bay they call Paradise Bay, otherwise known as Kocabahce.  There is a restaurant with a pontoon with pick up lines and plenty of opportunity to swim.  So that sounds perfect.

When we set off I pull up the anchor and it is clear that we were very well set and had nothing to worry about.  The blooming thing comes up full of sand and it takes a while to clean it off!  Paradise Bay is only around the corner and we are there in under an hour.  However, out best laid plans are a bit scuppered because the restaurant’s pontoon is fully reserved for a Sunsail flotilla!  But for a change we hit lucky.  Instead of having to anchor again in deep water with a line ashore they have one last mooring buoy for us to use!  So they help us to moor up and we are neatly tucked up.  Mike and Julia are not so lucky but they manage to anchor right next to us and the staff help with their line ashore.  We will have to have dinner at the restaurant, but that is fine.  We have even managed to reserve a table!

We go over in our own dinghy for a change.  That is fine.  The motor works even after it has been serviced!  Dinner is a simple affair, but we have another very pleasant evening with the Solanos. This time Richard keeps to his one beer and stays sober.  We are invited back for coffee, but I am so tired after the traumas of last night that we just went back to the boat and I flaked out quite early.

Saturday 5 September 2015 - Bozuk Buku, Turkey

We are back on the boat.  We flew out to Turkey on Thursday.  It was a long boring day.  With the two hour difference in time it was after 10pm when we landed, so we had to have some supper before we got to the boat.  We arrived after midnight and had some trouble finding the pontoon where they moved our boat to after it was relaunched.  But we eventually found it and fell asleep despite it being very hot.

On Friday we used the car to go to the big local supermarket to provision the boat.  Despite the supermarket being part of the Tesco group, I couldn’t find much to buy.  I was warned that Turkish food shopping is a bit limited.  So we managed to get some stuff together to feed us for a few days.  We had the boat cleaned inside and out and it is spotless, except for one big problem.  When they stripped down the hull and sanded the keel, they didn’t seal up the keel openings in the interior of the boat (despite Richard’s request that they do so).  So when I opened the cupboards under the sinks I found black dust on everything.  I therefore had to spend some time cleaning after all, washing everything in those cupboards.

Today we finally got away.  It all took longer than we hoped, but we were off by noon.  We knew that the wind would be on the nose for most of the way so we took advantage of a favourable wind for half an hour crossing the bay in Marmaris, just using the genoa.  With its new Coppercoat antifouling the boat slid through the water beautifully.  For the rest of the day we motored into headwinds.  We weren’t planning on going far.  We just went around the corner to Ciftlic, which was recommended.  It  was a pretty bay with a beach at one end and some restaurants with pontoons at the other.  We thought we would like to anchor for the night, so we went at the beach end of the bay.  We were not lucky with our attempts at anchoring.  The first time I put the anchor down, Richard went hard in reverse and instead of setting, the anchor dragged.  When I took it up it was just full of weed.  So we tried again to find a sandy patch, and thought we had succeeded.  However, when we went for a swim Richard looked at it with the face mask and snorkel and found that although the anchor was on sand, it was just lying there and not dug in again.

So we had lunch and then decided what to do.  There were three possibilities.  Try to anchor again and hope we could set it well enough to stay the night, go on one of the restaurant pontoons, or go to the next harbour.  We chose the last alternative, which in some respects was a bit of a mistake.  We knew that the wind would be on the nose going the way we planned, but we didn’t expect it to be a force 4, touching 5 with a very choppy sea.  So we were bobbing all about and worst of all there was a lot of spray making a mess our newly cleaned boat (especially the shiny chrome bits) and it also soaked our new sun shades, on the front windows.

But we make it to Bozuk Buku before it is dark.  It is a lovely spot with an ancient citadel on a cliff overlooking the bay.  We decided at the last minute to go onto a restaurant pontoon.  They have pick up lines and the situation is pretty, under the citadel.  We do have to eat in the restaurant, but that’s OK, because it really is too hot to cook.  But we bought some ice this morning, so after a swim, I make us rum punches, and we have two each!  Then dinner at the restaurant which is very average, but I have a nice grilled fish.  Now I am in the cockpit in the pitch dark typing this because it really is too hot below.  Not sure what we will do tomorrow.

Epiblog Wednesday 29 July 2015 – London

So we have made it home.  We had three nights in Marmaris marina.  We solved the grey water problem.  We found that with the rubbish bins there were water butts to put grey water in.  So all I had to do was do the washing up in a bucket and then pour that into the water containers.  I have no idea why the marina staff did not tell me this.

The weather was incredibly hot for the whole time.  So we did all the work sorting out the boat very slowly and interspersed with regular trips to the pool, which was a godsend.

We arranged for the boat to be lifted out, scrubbed and antifouled while we are away.  We also ordered covers for our windows into the saloon to keep the sun out and hopefully reduce the temperature inside the boat.  I have also got lazy so for some considerable sum we have arranged for the boat to be cleaned inside and out before we return.  With luck we will be able to get away quickly in September.

On Sunday Richard collected a hire car and we left the boat and went to Gocek.  We booked into a lovely boutique hotel with a pool and spent the afternoon there going in to town for the evening.  The place is really just based on boating.  It is in a large inlet which looks lovely to anchor in.  We will see if we want to spend time around here when we return.

The flight back was long, but uneventful and now we are home until September.  We will be in touch then.